Food from the Wild
Samantha Haworth and Vincent Parisi from Merrymakers Permaculture share about edible natives, bush foods to grow at home, and how to level-up your culinary game with some of these seriously underrated ingredients.
Published: 29 June 2023
Written by: Samantha Haworth & Vincent Parisi
Photograhy: Australian Finger Limes: Scarlett Twine @SunCoast_Fresh
Here in Toowoomba we have close access to an abundance of amazing food destinations. From distilleries to patisseries, bakeries and restaurants, there is something for everyone. But what about our native foods? So often when we think of ‘food’, we think of flavours and ingredients that are European-centred, but Australia has a bounty of luscious and complexly flavoured delights that have been overlooked for far too long. We wanted to share a few of our favourite native plants which are a mix of well-known icons and others that may be new to some.
Before we get into it properly, it is important to raise the discussion of indigenous food sovereignty, to acknowledge the cultural and economic value of bush foods and to be mindful that this stays in the hands of indigenous people and communities. Only a tiny percentage of indigenous people make up the ever-expanding native foods industry, but we can all help by respecting the plants, their cultural value and uses and by supporting indigenous growers and producers.
Macadamia: How could any discussion of native foods be complete without mention of our beloved Macadamia? A well-loved, and well-known Favorite, this delightful little nut has well and truly established itself in the kitchens of cooks and chefs around the world. A beautifully creamy and light flavour, it lends itself to so many different recipes and adaptations. Local foodie personality Angelo of Angelo’s Fresh Pasta has been heard to say that Macadamia is superior even to pine nuts in pesto, and we couldn’t agree more. Make sure you plant your macadamia in a spot that is sheltered from climate extremes, particularly frost. These trees thrive in a food forest although they can be slow growing.
Ribery: A lesser-known member of the Lilly Pilly family, Ribery has a slightly more complex and spicey flavour profile than the standard Lilly Pilly. Our first home together had a couple of wonderfully abundant bushes, which was our first introduction to them. Their beautiful bright red berries just looked too divine not to make the most of, and while their flavour was sharp when raw, we thought they would be a good candidate for a kitchen experiment. What was originally intended as a batch of jam, ended up being a bit of a hybrid chutney/jam mix, that made the most amazing accompaniment to Indian curries! just be aware of the large pips in the middle. They aren’t too hard, but the end product benefits from their removal. These plants are easy to grow in our climate and are great landscaping plants for both sun and partial shade.
Illawarra plum: Also known as a Brown Pine, the Illawarra plum is a quiet achiever and is sometimes overlooked for flashier tropical native plums. Illawarra plums produce a small fruit attached to a stem and hard seed, making them easy to process. Even better, the trees will drop fruit when ripe- a definite benefit, as the trees can grow to 8 meters in height. The fruit itself is a lovely, gooey jelly-like consistency with the flavour of a piney plum, which is enhanced in cooking. This unique flavour makes it easy to adapt to savory or sweet dishes, and its consistency lends itself to decadent sauces and jams. Think sticky, plumy pork ribs, or a Pavlova with a plum twist. With more than triple the antioxidants of blueberries, there are so many reasons to love the Brown Pine.
Illawarra plums prefer a rich neutral soil (just like our Toowoomba red!) and grow in part shade or full sun. If you want to take advantage of the fruits you will need to have a male and a female of the species so it's best to plant in multiples, or even consider keeping a pruned hedge of them. If space is an issue, consider teaming up with a Neighbour and sharing the harvest. In our experience food is the best way to win over a Neighbour, and strong community connections help us to stay resilient in these unique times.
If you want to see some prime specimens of the Illawarra plum, pack a picnic and head down to the gorgeous Laurell bank gardens- there are a number of trees close by to the croquet club.
Lemon Myrtle: A fantastically intense and versatile plant, these trees have become popular worldwide, with trees grown commercially in many countries. Lemon Mrytle has a distinct flavour- floral and citrusy and a hint of earthy undertones, this delightful plant can be used to impart its fresh flavour to any number of foods.
This plant is also an excellent medicinal, with actions ranging from antiseptic to decongestant to antifungal. We like to dry the leaves and turn them into power- great as tea or adding to seasonings. It has also long been used wrapped around native meats and fish for smoking or cooking (we would LOVE to try this). In the garden this tree thrives in a neutral to acid soil and will grow as a fast-growing, attractive shrub (or hedge) in full sun, or as a thin tall tree when planted densely in a forest garden. Also- the flowers are a delight!
Bunya Nut: One of our all-time favorite foraging foods, this magnificent tree needs absolutely no introduction. Of course, these beautiful marvels can be a bit big for suburbia, and with trees only producing after 30 years, the payoff can be a bit of a long one. However, if you have a bit more space, this is the perfect legacy tree- let's leave the patches we tend better than when we found them! Otherwise, a day trip to the Bunya Mountains is a great way to view Bunya trees in all their glory.
If you are lucky enough to forage some bunya nuts in fruiting season, we recommend using them as a gluten-free gnocchi. To do so, process them by removing their outer shell. Snip off the tips of the nuts inner casing so they don’t pop when cooking (tin snips or secateurs work well). From there, roast for 20 minutes- once they are roasted, it's easy to remove the casing around the nut. From here, simply add them to an already stewing tomato Napoli sauce. Cook the nuts in the sauce on medium-high for another half an hour until the sauce is rich and thick. And that’s it- Serve with basil and hard cheese- delightful!
Native Grains: A lot of people may not be aware that there is also a plethora of native grains that grow throughout Australia. These grains have been cultivated by the indigenous people for thousands of years, and evidence of milling stones have been found around Australia. Some sources reference indigenous Australians as the world's first bakers. In our region, kangaroo grass is very common, as is native millet in the black clay plains to the south and west of Toowoomba. These native grains have been re-entering the spot light in recent years through the efforts of Bruce Pascoe, including native grasses, many of our native wattleseeds can be harvested and milled for use ranging from homemade energy bars to confectionary flavorings. The huge diversity of native grasses and wattles means there are plants for all soil types!
Tasmanian Pepperberry: Growing quickly in popularity both in Australia and internationally, its not understatement to say that Tasmanian Pepperberry does some serious culinary heavy lifting!
The fruit itself once dried has an uncanny resemblance to black peppercorns with a flavour profile that is similar yet more complex, with a combination of flavours that develop as you eat. Starting off with menthol notes, the flavour moves to something similar to conventional ‘warm’ spices like cinnamon and ginger with some underlying bitter undertones before a final kick of heat that can come as a bit of a surprise! Not only are the berries versatile enough to be used fresh or dry, they are suitable for both savory and sweet cooking. Not only that, but the leaves can also be dried and used similar to curry leaf!
This handful of plants is just a tiny snapshot of the huge diversity of wild foods that inhabit our corner of the world, and it was a difficult choice to narrow down our favorites from the amazing bounty.
To learn more, check out the local Gumbi Gumbi Gardens and download the accompanying app for a virtual tour of the gardens, or take a walk through the Ravensbourne national park to view native Tamarind, pencil yams, nettles and black beans (just be respectful and don't harvest anything).
@merrymakers.permaculture
